Carnitas Taco at El Rancho Grande

Friday, August 27, 2010

Maybe the best thing about this month-old, hyper-yellow taqueria is that its carved out a place on an otherwise under-taco'd stretch of Divis. It's the kind of relentlessly well-lit place you reckon you'll end up after a night of drinking, and you could do worse. There's a salsa bar ― the salsas don't blow you away, but the setup is stocked with griddle-blistered whole jalapenos. The fish taco is fine: ragged pieces of something wihte and innocuous (basa maybe), browned in plenty of oil on the flattop, with a welter of onion and cilantro under mild-tasting guajillo salsa. The carnitas are better. The meat's soft and steamy and tastes like cinnamon, which is not what you expect ― sort of like finding a Mission-scale taqueria along a quiet stretch of upper Divis.

El Rancho Grande: 855 Divisadero (at McAllister), 673-8226.

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