Coffee Bar: More Wood-Fired Pizza for the Mission

It's probably a good thing that Coffee Bar on Bryant and Mariposa doesn't have too many neighbors, because that conspicuous wood-fired oven it's just installed would be likely to draw a lawsuit in a neighborhood that wasn't zoned for light industry.

In other words, they're serving pizza! Six different pizzas, to be exact, ranging from the standard margherita (tomato sauce, buffalo mozzarella, sweet basil, olive oil, and sea salt) to the not-exactly-American Americano (BBQ sauce, mozzarella, asiago, chicken, caramelized garlic, and frisée). There is also a Vespa (olive oil, caramelized onion, brie, bacon, olive oil, and sea salt) whose name may be derived from Italian or just a reference to the vehicle by which one Coffee Bar patron in three arrives.

But it's the soppressata salami that drew me in. With provolone, salami, oregano, Calabrian chilies, and fire-roasted red peppers, it's got quite a bit of heat. Larding up a pie with so many oily toppings can result in a gloppy mess, but this crust had dimension and structure — and best of all, everything is half-off on weekdays, 5-9 p.m. until the end of the month, so this dinner-for-two was only $7.

Surrounded by split logs, the imported Genoese oven could not fit more perfectly in Coffee Bar's peculiar trapezoidal patio. It's like it was always there, waiting for you to eat from it.

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