When we heard Cotogna was starting up brown-bag lunches to go for $12, we had to try one.

The restaurant chef Michael Tusk opened as a more approachable neighbor to his high-end Quince seems perfect for the concept, as it specializes in hearth-roasted meats and other brown-baggable fare.

Today's lunch included a porchetta sandwich, a container of rigatoni and mustard green salad, and a chocolate chip cookie.