Craftsman and Wolves: High Tea for the Modern Connoisseur

We've been wanting to try the afternoon tea service at Craftsman and Wolves since it began in October, but due to its specialty nature, it is only served from 1 to 5 p.m. Monday through Wednesday, so it took some time to catch it during this small window. However, after experiencing it last week, we think this window is definitely worth opening for its delightful surprises, which change according to the whim of Craftsman and Wolves.

Your snacks arrive on a clean wooden tower, which punctures the pomp of the stuffy traditional metal tier. And the food is all twists on the traditional. Crumpets bear the tell-tale holes, but are made with brown buckwheat, to be smeared with clotted cream and passion fruit and olive oil curd. Thin slices of house-baked rye beg for heaps of salt cod rillettes, which are finished with a kind of parsley gel. A brioche sandwich of duck confit with red wine and onion marmalade, some savory ginger scallion madeleines, and a sinfully caramelized hazelnut financier pop beyond their appropriately diminutive sizes.

Most of the items are not available for individual sale, save for the crunchy-sugar-coated scone (the current one features big chunks of cooked pear, walnuts, and praline topping) and a pâte de fruit (presently carrot and passion fruit). Classic shortbread finishes off the proceedings properly. And, oh yes, there is actual tea involved. Partner Naivetea, a company specializing in oolong varieties, provides the liquid refreshment with beautiful blooms in clear pots.

Afternoon tea service at Craftsman and Wolves is $22 for one person and $40 for two. Reservations are recommended, but not required (the seating in the shop is communal).

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