When I go into a bar, the first thing I do is scan the menu for the drinks that define the house style. In that pursuit, I usually scan past the classic drinks and look for original ones — except if I am at one of Thad Vogler and Eric Johnson's bars like Bar Agricole and the brand new Trou Normand.
Nobody has the ability to alchemize old drinks with the same kind of skill that this duo does, like their manifestation of the Jersey City ($11, calvados, pineapple gum syrup, absinthe) cocktail. The presentation is dramatic and unusual in that the drink is both stirred and built in the glass. Watch as a squared spike of ice starts off too big to fit into the glass gets stirred for a few seconds and melts just enough to descend, snug, to the bottom.