Eat It Up: Chawan Mushi In San Francisco

Reading both Chronicle scribe Michael Bauer's and Tablehopper's recent mouth-watering reviews of Yoshi's San Francisco reminded me of my all-time favorite Japanese dish: chawan mushi, a traditional Japanese savory egg custard dish made with dashi and usually filled with all kinds of delectable extras like mushrooms and kamaboko (fish cake). While I've had excellent chawan mushi at many a Japanese joint, especially in New York City, the only one I've had here in the Bay Area is at Ame, which does it up just the way I like: smoky, hot, and smooth as silk, with Dungeness crab, shimeji mushrooms, yuzu and mizuna sauce ($17) But with the addition of foie gras — the ultimate in culinary decadence — Yoshi's version ($15) is an absolute must have for Japanese cuisine hounds. Here are the vitals: is comes with spiny lobster, uni, foie gras and mushroom dashi ankake. I gots ta have it.

— Brian Bernbaum

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