Second only to the pizza dilemma, the question of whether San Francisco has good bagels or not remains the most annoying thing of no consequence to argue about in this city. Hopefully inviting and putting to rest any debate, Daily Driver opens this Saturday, June 15, selling those doughnut-shaped bread things that aren’t doughnuts — along with lots of coffee.
A project of two couples — Tamara Hicks and David Jablons, and Hadley and David Kreitz — it’s neither New York-style nor Montreal-style, but firmly rooted in the Bay Area. Hicks and Jablons have run Marin’s Toluma Farms and Tomales Farmstead Creamery for 15 years, and Daily Driver will also be S.F.’s first place to get some of Oakland’s Red Bay Coffee. The industrial-gigantic space, clocking in at 7,000 square feet — or roughly one for each of the 7,250 bagels they aim to sell every day — contains ample room for 130 people and their poppies, sesames, and everythings. You better believe they’re wood-fired (hand-rolled, too) to get that chewy interior and surface crunch.
What makes Daily Driver stand out from other bagel operators is the commitment to what goes on those bagels. While there’s a wholesale and catering component, Hadley Kreitz oversees a churning department of sorts that produces butter, cream cheese, and the like — even quark, that Northern European fresh cheese that’s not unlike labneh or paneer. Further, chef-partner Martin Siggins (Nico) will put out a selection of weekend brunch items like bagel dogs and a bagel lobster roll — and even repurpose the day-olds into a take on matzo ball soup. Because Dogpatch is full of craft breweries, beer from neighbors like Magnolia and Harmonic will be there, too.
Daily Driver, 2535 Third St., 415-484-8960 or dailydriver.com