Virtually every place in San Francisco that serves flour tortillas sources them from the inimitable La Palma Mexicatessen, the 66-year-old establishment on 24th Street that rightly has something of a lock on them.
But that doesn’t mean there isn’t room for variety, especially when venturing out of Mexican food proper and into the realm of Tex-Mex. As of Saturday, May 25, WesBurger N’ More will roll out breakfast tacos, migas, and other staples of the Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex by way of a certain valley in New Mexico. After experimenting at length, chef-owner Wes Rowe came up with a vegetarian breakfast taco made with smoky, fermented Hatch chilies, and there’s a meatier version made with house-smoked brisket.
Because it’s a burger restaurant at heart, there’s also a Breakfast Smash that starts with a sausage patty made from ground brisket that’s then smashed on the griddle for a nice Maillard crust, then combined with a fluffy second patty consisting of egg-and-queso, plus a slice of American cheese. (It’s almost dizzying.)
WesBurger’s Nashville Hot Chicken is already well-regarded, and now in the morning there’s a chicken fried chicken sandwich made with a queso-egg patty and scallions, plus poblano gravy. If you have a hankering for Texas toast, a PB&J made from two slices with house-made jalapeño-strawberry jam and peanut butter gets deep-fried in a savory-sweet beer batter then receives the full bourbon syrup, candied bacon, and whipped cream treatment. Who’s mom would ever pack that in a brown paper bag? Someone whose mom swatted them on the behind to run and catch the school bus, that’s who.
Starting with The Den, its bar-within-a-restaurant, and later expanding throughout the entire joint, Wes Burger is already open until 3 a.m. on Friday and Saturday nights. And now you can practically eat four meals a day there on the weekend.
Weekend Breakfast, at Wes Burger N’ More, Saturdays and Sundays, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., 2240 Mission St., 415-745-9371 or wesburgernmore.com