Go Eat This Now: Tacos Club

Carnitas, al pastor, or cactus-and-cheese — it’s all there at the best taqueria in the Castro.

Like most sane people, I love tacos. I love soft tacos, hard tacos, silver-dollar-sized street tacos, and even the occasional veggie taco. But more so than not, I like tacos to be as simple as possible. I’m looking for something quick. cheap, and delicious, with perfectly cooked meat, tangy salsa with a kick, some pungent white onion, and a squirt of lime. That’s the taco that San Francisco made me fall in love with, and my most recent taco ideé fixe hits the nail right on the head.

Tacos Club, on Upper Market Street in the Castro, does everything right. They’re one of the only decent taquerias for blocks, and they keep it low-key, with just as much seating outside as in. It’s the perfect little spot to stop by on your walk home, for a quick beer and a bite. This sliver of a restaurant serves crispy carnitas bursting with flavors of cumin, chili, and Mexican oregano. The pollo asada is blanketed with salsa tomatillo and cilantro. On Tuesdays, the street-style tacos cost only $2, turning a quick snack into a taco tasting menu, from the al pastor all the way to the cactus-and-cheese.

Even though they’re all over the place, not every taco joint in this city is a guaranteed home run, but Tacos Club is. These guys understand the taco, from the size and shape to the delicate balance of the meat and fillings.

There isn’t a hell of a lot to eat in the Castro, but next time you’re walking around the neighborhood and you’re hungry, swing by the club! No membership needed.

Tacos Club, 2312 Market St., 415-796-2818, no website.

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