Horatius' Salt Cod Hash a Pricey Letdown

Earlier, we ogled the barnlike café, food market, wine bar, and event space (damn, that's tiring) known as Horatius (350 Kansas at 16th St.). Today we revisited to chew on the kitchen's some home-style Portuguese. The bacalhau a casa (salt cod hash)? Definitely weren't feeling it. It was oily, but not in a delicious way: a shiny pile of julienne potatoes, clumps of salt cod, red peppers, semisoft onions, and kalamatas topped with a fried egg. The cod was nicely tufted, but it made us crave potatoes that were softer and more browned, more, well, hashlike. And it set us back $15.50 (come on — like that extra 50 cents is necessary), which we don't mind paying for something that gives us $15.50's worth of satisfaction. But sorry, Horatius: On the rare occasions when we have a 20 to drop for lunch, we expect perfection.


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