Hot Meal: Pizza, Beer, and a Whiff of the Familiar at Delarosa

Over the past four months, the folks behind the Mission's magnetic Beretta (Ruggero Gadaldi, Deborah Blum, and Adriano Paganini) have tripled their presence in San Francisco. First it was Starbelly in the Castro, and late last month came Delarosa, with its gently mod décor, in the Marina.

The Beretta faithful will find similarly sharable Italian plates and carefully made cocktails, though the pizza here is purportedly Roman style, and Starbelly cicerone Rich Higgins has added 30 draft and bottled beers to Delarosa's mix.

We needed one right away to take the edge off the crowd roar and cramped communal seating. Next time we'll wheedle into one of the relatively private two- or four-tops in the 100-seat dining room. Our neighbors were close enough to smell our order of wilted winter chicories and cauliflower ($6), brought to life with crumbly hazelnuts and sweet balsamic. A less impressive sliced chicken sausage ($7) mingled with halved red grapes in a bowl. Its side of homemade mustard helped, but not enough.

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