This sign has been taunting SFoodie for months, and not just because the adjective doesn't accord with the noun it modifies. We've been feeling the pull of the Mexican-style Cuban sandwich, which is The Thing of cubanos, exposed to cosmic rays while out on a routine space expedition and mutated beyond recognition. Where the Cuban cubano contains its mess ― melted cheese, pork times two, and pickles ― in a compact, pressed length of bread, the Mexican torta explodes. It's a Dagwood Bumstead torta, a Meat Lover's Special torta, as daunting as it is compelling.