Jonathan Kauffman: Gracias Madre Ditches the Gratitude, Finds the Food

Strict vegan or raw-curious meatatarian, it's easy to have issues with Café Gratitude, the local live-foods chain preaching a self-help gospel stiff enough to curdle your mug of I Am Super Hot. It was Gratitude issues that made Jonathan Kauffman initially skeptical about Gracias Madre, the vegan (but not raw-gan) Mexican-food spinoff that landed on Mission last December. In today's “Eat,” Kauffman offers a sort of mea culpa, loaded down with bites of butternut squash and cashew cheese-filled quesadillas, vegan posole, and fantastic heirloom corn tortillas. Gracias Madre, he finds, serves up only trace amounts of credo in dishes that respect their genre even as they shun crema from cows. Read SFoodie's sizable excerpt after the jump, then click on over to to read how Kauffman hashes out the particulars.

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