Kitchenette Owner Says Heart's Small-Plates Menu Inspired by Old-Fashioned 'Lardering'

Details are emerging about Heart, the wine bar and restaurant taking shape at 1270 Valencia (at 24th St.). The collaboration by Jeff Segal and Kitchenette will share its building with the Mission branch of Arizmendi. Kitchenette owner Douglas Monsalud told us his American tapas menu will take inspiration from what he called lardering and homesteading. “Smoking, salting, pickling ― all those traditional home-preserving things we can do in a controlled setting,” said Monsalud, who also owns LRE Catering. “American food is under-represented in San Francisco, so we moved it slightly in that direction.”

Heart's space and other challenges mean ― just like at most catered events ― the food will have to be cooked off-site, mostly, and assembled to order. And it'll need to complement Segal's sometimes quirky wine, beer, and cider selections. Expect a range of nibbles from olives and sage-roasted almonds to plates of American cheeses and cured meats (Iowa prosciutto, Fatted Calf tasso) and an update on chopped liver. More substantial dishes will include a pastured chicken pot pie and cheddar pudding soufflé with apples, Monsalud's re-imagining of diner apple pie topped with cheddar. Also seafood crudos (expect a scallop version on Heart's opening menu), and cooked dishes still taking shape (cider-braised goat belly, for instance). A Kitchenette-style lunch is in the plans not long after opening.

Monsalud said the new venture will mean abbreviated hours for Kitchenette (958 Illinois at 20th St.) through the end of February. And instead of a small menu that changes daily, the Dogpatch lunch takeout will probably settle into an expanded list of offerings (soups, sides, and additional salads, along with the usual sandwiches) that change weekly.

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