Local Mission Eatery: Laid-Back Setting, Stepped-Up Sandwiches

In a way, yesterday's launch of Local Mission Eatery was a culmination of local eating trends that've been coalescing for a year or more. The daytime-only, order-at-the-counter place ― a collaboration by Yaron Milgrom and chef Jake des Voignes ― is arguably the apogee of S.F.'s food-on-bread culture. “We're making sandwiches,” says Milgrom, “but we're taking the approach of high-end food.”

That mashup of café ambience and under-$10 sandwiches tweaked by a chef who earned his chops in places with sommeliers and garde mangers, is a concept only slightly less viable, perhaps, than thin-crust pizza and craft brews. Kitchenette, Pal's Takeaway, Rhea's Deli, Naked Lunch, The Sentinel, Il Cane Rosso, the ill-fated Carte415: the way Milgrom talks, they were all steps on the road to Local Mission. “The places that are doing this kind of food well, they aren't places where you can sit down and relax,” he says.

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