Los Planes de Renderos: Face-Smearing Pupusas in the Excelsior

Not many sub-$2 meals satisfy us more than the pupusa revuelta at tiny Los Planes de Renderos in the Excelsior. A thick corn tortilla is stuffed with shredded pork, refried beans, and mejillo (a soft, mild cheese), then griddled on both sides to a golden hue. From the first bite, you appreciate the skill of the griddle master, overseeing 20 to 30 pupusas in a cramped kitchen during the lunch rush. She nails the exterior every time, keeping it crisp while retaining the flavor of corn. Though the cheese goes a way to cutting the saltiness of the pork, you'll still want a glass of water handy.

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