Marlowe Burger Is a Delivery Vehicle for Marlowe's Greatest Hit

“Never eat more than you can lift,” said Miss Piggy. Her pearl of porcine wisdom remains etched to the window at Marlowe Burger, along with dozens of other food-and-drink quotations. Although the building, opposite CalTrain, remains marked for demolition, the James Beard-nominated chef Jennifer Puccio and her team got enough of a stay of execution to warrant keeping the business open in some fashion. This is great for two reasons: There’s a real shortage of brick in this town, and now we have more places to eat a Marlowe burger.

[jump] While you can technically order other things, like a crispy fried chicken sandwich (Caesar aioli, bacon, field greens), chicken nuggets, and an “egg roll” (deviled egg salad, pickled chili, bacon and aged provolone), it’s all about the titular burger ($10.50). It comes with caramelized onions, cheddar, bacon, horseradish aioli and shredded romaine, and it’s not cooked to order, but served on the rare side. Fries ($4) really seal the deal; they’re crisp, fat, and don’t retain a lot of oil, making them the opposite of In-N-Out’s.

While succinct, Marlowe Burger’s menu is a bit cheeky: “Be classy. Drink wine,” says the wine section. If you’re hopelessly déclassé, perhaps a brew? (“All reads are served in cans. We will open it for you because we’re fancy like that.”) The once-elegant exterior sign, for what used to be Marlowe proper before it moved around the block, has been artfully spray-painted out to reflect the new name, a detail which sets the tone for the entire revamp. It may not be permanent, but nothing about it feels hasty or slapped together. Rather, it’s a delivery vehicle for Marlowe’s greatest hit.

Marlowe Burger
, 330 Townsend, 974-5599.

Tags: ,

Related Stories