This week, guest critic Jesse Hirsch reviews Mission Cheese, the tiny Valencia-street store devoted to the artisanal and the whiffy:
It ranges from stinky to mild, chèvre to raw cow, burrata to aged cheddar. [Sarah] Dvorak, a self-styled cheese advocate with garde manger experience, knows how to keep a well-stocked larder. Her cheese comes melted over potatoes and cornichons, oozing out of French bread bearing tomatoes and basil, and served straight-up on cheeseboard triptychs.
Hirsch finds the restaurant isn't as finely tuned as Dvorak's sensibilities, but the awkwardness doesn't ruin his hopes for Mission Cheese. While you're ruminating over burratas and clothbound cheddars, check out Lara Hata's slideshow from her visit to the place. Pure cheese porn.