Nico's Chicken and Waffle Taco: Brilliant or Bust?

Really, it's surprising no one thought of it sooner. But Nico's Tacos in North Beach claims to be the first to dream up the ultimate on-trend snack: the chicken-and-waffle taco. It's a genius idea on paper. Shame it doesn't hold up in execution.

I am something of a chicken-and-waffle snob. I just moved up from L.A., where I lived within walking distance of the great Roscoe's House of Chicken & Waffles. Roscoe's might not have originated the dish (its origins are murky; various camps credit Harlem, the South, even Thomas Jefferson), but Roscoe's did make it famous.

It's a choose-your-own adventure sort of meal when done right. You've got a few pieces of fried chicken, a stack of fluffy waffles, and plenty of syrup and butter at your disposal. Balance is key. Some eat the components separately, but pros load up each forkful with a bit of everything to make a beautiful sweet/savory harmony.

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