No. 55: BBQ Pork Skewers at Fil-Am Cuisine

SFoodie's countdown of our 92 favorite things to eat and drink in San Francisco, 2011 edition.

“Gusto ko ng isang platong breakfast,” says the lady in line, “Give me a breakfast plate,” but the counter guy at Daly City's Fil-Am Cuisine has to break the news to her: The next batch of rice isn't ready yet ― it'll be five, maybe ten minutes. She sighs forcefully, makes a clicking noise with her tongue, but she isn't going anywhere.

Sunday morning, and there's the usual chaos at this packed Filipino point-point, a tight storefront at the edge of a residential neighborhood, where five cooks work the food line. Customers trail out onto the sidewalk, waiting for rice plates or party orders ― flimsy, foil-wrapped pans of lumpia and pancit bihon, turron (fried banana spring rolls) when they have them, and above all the BBQ skewers constantly packing the double grills. The grill cook looks perennially stressed, a tightly rolled towel wicking the sweat from the back of his neck, armed with a spray bottle to fight flare-ups. One grill's covered with chicken skewers, the other with pork, foil strips turned a shade of bronze by the intense heat, lined up to prevent the bamboo skewer ends from turning to ash.

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