No. 6: Atomica Pizza at Gialina

SFoodie's countdown of our 92 favorite things to eat and drink in San Francisco, 2011 edition.

No one makes a pizza crust like Sharon Ardiana. Glossy and golden, the rolling swell of the lip barely tamed by the pizzaiolo, the crust practically hovers above the plate. You lift it and up it floats, far lighter than you're accustomed to; every bite resounds with a hollow crack. The center of the crust is thin enough to recede behind of the flavor of the toppings. But it's hardly invisible ― sometimes the wheat comes through, other times a hint of smoke and char from the oven.

And while Ardiana's seasonal pies ― in the spring, say, finely chopped asparagus with Meyer lemon and a farm-cooked egg ― are always the ones your eye is drawn to first, the Atomica has justly earned a permanent spot. It's a classic pie, with a proper tomato sauce and meaty slices of portobello held in place by a parsley-flecked cap of browned mozzarella. Slivers of red onions lurk under there, too, sending out little zaps when you crunch into them, a warning that the slower-flaring heat of chiles is about to hit.

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