No. 65: Sidekick's Chocolate Spritzer

SFoodie's countdown of the 92 best things to eat and drink in San Francisco, 2011 edition.

You could argue that Sidekick was conceived in Paris, a city with a healthy respect for the pure products of pleasure and the people who make them. That might explain why the owners, Cowgirl Creamery's Sue Conley and Peggy Smith, felt they didn't need to reinvent everything for their milk bar in the Ferry Building. Take the chocolate spritzer, a made-to-order chocolate soda. Instead of concocting their own chocolate base, Sidekick's milk baristas ladle a plug of Extra-Bitter Chocolate Sauce from Marketplace neighbor Recchiuti into the fountain cup, then dilute with a thread of simple syrup and fizzy water from the carbonating machine. A husky, cacao-bean flavor fills your mouth, but though your synapses brace, nanoseconds later, to register the heaviness of cocoa butter, it never hits. What you feel instead is the needle-prick of bubbles, the seafoam texture of the pale-colored scurf on top, and chocolate freed of weight and richness, thrilling as a Fudgsicle redesigned by minimalists.

Sidekick: 1 Ferry Building #19 (at Embarcadero), 392-4000.

Dishes in our series so far:

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