The dish we go back to Hai Ky Mi Gia for, though, is duck leg soup with thick egg noodles. Presented under a tuft of cilantro, the yellow noodles barely qualify for the adjective “thick” — they're delicate, slippery, silky things, which still have some bite to them when the soup is fresh. The braised duck leg, garnished with a little fried garlic, seems stiff at first, but as it sits in the broth, it warms and softens, and the meat ― tasting of soy and star anise ― peels off into tender chunks with the poke of a chopstick.
If you go into Hai Ky Mi Gia expecting bun, you're looking for the wrong thing. The restaurant specializes in Chinese-Vietnamese ― or, to be more specific, Chaozhou/Teochew ― noodle soups. That can mean a clean chicken broth with spindly egg noodles and a plethora of meats, or beef stew with rice noodles.
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