No. 87: Outerlands' Levain Bread

SFoodie's countdown of the 92 best things to eat and drink in San Francisco, 2011 edition.

The levain at Outerlands isn't just great bread, it's the heart of the restaurant, the centerpiece of much of its food: Dave Muller and Lana Porcello's cafe is famous for its fried-egg brunch sandwiches, grilled cheese, slabs with soup, even toast served on the side at dinner. Muller learned to bake from Tartine's Chad Robertson, and he's featured in the Robertson's Tartine Bread book and its promo video.

But as Robertson credits Muller in the book, Outerlands' bread has become something altogether different than Tartine's (exquisite) country loaf. Muller's bread is the perfect midpoint of rustic French breads and square-cornered sandwich loaves.

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