Nopa, Four Barrel: How New York Times Food Writer/Rocker Peter Meehan Eats on the Road

“West Coastin',” New York Times food writer Peter Meehan's Snoop Dogg-ishly titled “Grass Fed” column of June 29, revealed that the scraggly-maned scribe plays guitar in a musty, atmospheric psych-folk band that includes Magik Markers member Pete Nolan and Sonic Youth skins-thumper Steve Shelley. An appropriately vibed gig for a foodhound with a thing for fiddlehead ferns and stinging nettles, Spectre Folk's recent tour of the West Coast took them to some San Francisco eats and drinks establishments of note. Musicians love dishing about their favorite road meals, but Meehan's an expert:

Four Barrel Coffee? “The last time I was there, Four Barrel was just a [sic] espresso machine on a loading dock in the alley behind what is now the gloriously airy, warehouse-y space. I don't know why, but I feel like the coffee was better back then, which is not to say that what we got was bad, but it wasn't as epic as the place's reputation had led me to expect.”

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