SFoodie's countdown of our favorite 50 things to eat and drink, 2012 edition
Boxing Room's chef, Justin Simoneaux, brings a California sensibility to traditional Cajun dishes — fried oyster salad with arugula and fennel, gulf flounder with tasso and green garlic — but for his dirty rice, he adheres strictly to his mother's recipe.
There are dozens of versions of dirty rice around the Bay Area, at dozens of middling New Orleans restaurants, and none of them are as good as Simoneaux's. His dirty rice resembles an American biryani, a conflagration of seasonings — a mélée between the caramelized meats and the thyme and garlic, the celery kicking up from the floor, green pepper and chile powder shouldering in to the brawl from the sides. In Indian and Pakistan, biryani is a feast-day dish; at Boxing Room, it's a $6 side.