Piccino shortly after the four-year-old restaurant's move to a giant Victorian-era stable in May, I waited four months to file this week's full-length restaurant review. Why the wait? Well, there was the matter of a self-imposed blackout.
After last year's artisan-pizza glut (Zero Zero, Ragazza, Una Pizza Napoletana, etc.), my editor and I both burned out. No more pizza reviews for a year, he insisted, and I made it 10 months until a list of new pizzerias with good pedigrees reached critical length. Guardedly, I was allowed to begin paying visits.