Rice Paper Scissors Now Popping Up for Brunch

Vietnamese street food champion and all-around social media darling Rice Paper Scissors has made the move from pop-up to permanently stationed restaurant, inside Brick and Mortar Music Hall on Mission and Duboce — and now they're doing brunch, too. Valerie Luu and Katie Kwan are apparently incapable of a misstep, and while the prices are a tad higher than some other banh mi in town, you can taste why.

Both the grilled steak banh mi (hangar steak with oyster sauce, sautéed green garlic, grilled onions, house-made mayo, chicken liver pate, daikon pickles, cilantro, and jalapeños) and the banh mi op la (largely the same, but with fried eggs and Vietnamese ham in lieu of steak and onions) edge that lunchtime staple towards proper brunch terrain. I am as ardent a fan of Saigon Sandwich as you'll ever see, but the waits can be uncomfortably long and you have to take your food to go — and we've all gotten yelled at in there at least once. Factor in the freshness of R.P.S.'s ingredients, and that $9 feels more than worth it.

An enormous goi ga (chicken salad made with shred cabbage, house-made shrimp chips, fried shallots, and a fish sauce vinaigrette) manages to be both light and satisfying. There's also a ton of dim sum, like daikon cakes made with Chinese sausage and dried shrimp ($7), salt-and-pepper tofu ($6), dry-fried chicken wings ($6) and a pâte chaud, a savory handheld pie made with ground chicken, chicken liver pâte, and wood ear mushrooms ($6).

Brick and Mortar can be dark as hell at midday, but you can dine al fresco — assuming that the proximity of the Central Freeway overpass doesn't ruin it. If you're on the fence, a mimosa or a Sriracha Bloody Mary will surely win you over. Another coup for two women who can seemingly do no wrong.

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