Rich Table might want to patent the idea of infusing healthy Omega 3 fatty acids into one of America's favorite junk food indulgences. Sardine chips ($7) make for a good starter snack for dinner or a smart counterbalance to a drink at the restaurant's bar.
Two slits are made in round slices of potato, a sardine is placed through the slits, and the whole bundle is deep fried to a crisp that's heavier than Lay's but lighter than a kettle chip. In concert with a whipped horseradish crème fraîche for dunking, it delivers fierce doses of umami and salt that real chip junkies crave.
There are other dishes to recommend at this new restaurant, which has been open for about four weeks, but the mercurial nature of the menu means that nothing sticks around for long. Handmade pastas, salads, and main courses showcase simple but novel flavor combinations that work, as the sardine chips vividly illustrates.