Roll Play: Miyako's Mission Impossible

Tucked into the car-free block of Buchanan known as Osaka Way, Miyako (1707 Buchanan/Osaka Way at Post) offers both Japanese and Korean dishes, from ramen and sushi to bibimbap. There are a lot of standards from which to choose, but there's clearly some fun being had with the maki: There is a huge selection of special sushi rolls with playful names and ideas. Never ones to back down from a challenge, we took on Mission Impossible ($13.95), a roll that features no less than four types of fish and three different sauces. Raw, spicy tuna, imitation crab (likely pollock), and cucumber are on the inside, with grilled white tuna, grilled salmon, jalapeno-infused masago, miso dressing, mustard, and cheese sauce on top. Less than halfway through, we understood its name, but still pressed on until the end in a battle between a full tummy and an enamored palate.


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