Salty Peanut Pleasure Pulses through Heart's Fibrillation

Heart's aptly named Fibrillation ($5) looked like something we'd gobble at Burmese standby Yellow Pa Taut, not a wine bar. Indeed, the glistening crunchy peanuts laced with green onions, chiles, lime, and salty curls of fried sardines (served up in a paper tray, no less) seemed to strike an invigorating balance between thirst-sparking ballpark fare and street food from Southeast Asia to Central America.

When we saw the dish arrive, small as it was, we feared we'd overdose trying to munch half a peanut butter jar's worth of nuts ― perhaps collapse on the floor, gasping for breath, salt oozing from our pores. Never fear; we chomped our way through, and irrigated our desert-dry grill with a few $6 glasses of house white (the very nice 2008 Closerie des Lys Blanc), though we could have just as easily handled some plastic cups of cheap domestic froth at $8.75 a pop.

Heart 1270 Valencia (at 24th St.), 285-1200.

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