Sandbox Bakery's Curry Bread: A Savory Pastry with Ninja Power

Boramy, steadfast employee at Bernal's new Japanese/French Sandbox Bakery, has a favorite: the katsu sandwich on a challah roll. It comes with coleslaw and yuzu marmalade, an update on katsu's expected side of shredded cabbage. Sadly, there were none available when we paid a visit yesterday.

So we went with Boramy's next suggestion: the curry bread ($3) containing a traditional Japanese spicy beef stew with potatoes, carrots, and onion. The airy bread pillow, baked not fried, carried a hint of salt and a feather-dusting of panko. Rip it open and you're immediately hit with the rousing scent of beef stock and curry. We also tried negi miso: a shiny, plump challah knot woven with green onion, miso, sesame seed, and coarse salt. Pulling both buns into edible pieces was a sensory pleasure almost as great as eating them.

As far as Sandbox's savories go, Boramy tells us there's always an apple and cheese sandwich available with optional bacon. More savory options start to show up in the case at 11 a.m. So if you want the katsu challah concoction, call ahead to make sure it's there. Then arrive early to make sure you get one of the limited batch made daily.

Or just stroll in on your own time and snag the curry like we did. Katsu shmatsu.

Sandbox Bakery 833 Cortland (at Gates), 642-8580

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