Shut Up and Eat Your Enoki: A SFoodie Lunch Planner

Friday, November 20, 2009

How many effing yogurts do you need to choose from? Choice is overrated, especially in the Whole Foods dairy aisle, when you wish somebody could just hand you the damn Wallaby Peach Passion and let you move on.

That's one of the joys of the $9 prix-fixe lunch at Jai Yun in Chinatown. You sit. The nice lady brings. You eat. And what she brings is pretty much an untarnished delight: A heap of enoki that look like filament-thin noodles, dressed up with feathery bits of frilly tripe; fluffy wedges of eggplant cooked Sichuan style.

It's all quietly delicate, and there's no telling in advance what you'll get. Which is the point.

Jai Yun 680 Clay (at Kearny), 981-7438

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