As vibrant as the regional cuisines of China are, you wouldn't always know it in America, where Western bistros are encouraged to play and experiment, but chefs at “ethnic” restaurants are often tied to a roster of the classics.
Well, not Sichuan Home, the subject of this week's full-length restaurant review. Here you get a sense of the innovation happening in Chengdu, the culinary capital of Sichuan Province, and of chef Liu Hong's imagination. Tea-smoked duck is stir-fried with peppers and garlic. Lotus root slices are pressed together with ground pork and deep-fried. Fish stew comes with yam cake and seaweed.