Street Fixe Pop-Up Brought the Heat. Good Thing

Wind blasted the side courtyard at Stable Café Tuesday evening, as diners for the first-ever Street Fixe lined up to be seated. Organized by SF Food Wars' Jeannie Choe, the pop-up brought together street-food vendors for a five-course prix fixe, served at communal tables, some indoors, some out. Guests paid $35 when they made the online reservation; cans of Miller High Life were $2.

The menu was loosely organized around the notion of heat, which whipping breezes did their best to extinguish, playing hell with portable burners set up outdoors. So vendors packed up and moved inside.

The theme might as well have been sweetness ― a kind of earthy, complex sweetness, that managed to avoided sugariness. Most courses featured fruit. There was Slow Jams' duo of dark-tasting cherry chutney and jalapeño jelly (a loose-textured relish, really), a distillation of capsicum prickliness without the blast of heat. Soul Cocina laid down sabudana vada, a south Indian fritter of tapioca pearls and turmeric-stained potato, with curry leaves fried crisp in coconut oil, and an apricot sauce that served as Cali homage to India's Maggi ketchup.

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