Thermidor: Can Retro Succeed Without Kitsch?

Thermidor can feel as hard to penetrate as Don Draper's psyche. On one hand, chef Bruce Binn's dinner rolls and baked Alaska and pommes dauphine leave a buttery trail through memory, depositing you smack in the middle of a midcentury-modern childhood you might know only from Mad Men. On the other hand, there's a reason why chicken Kiev ended up in the freezer bin of history ― we've moved on, gastro-culturally.

That's the line Jonathan Kauffman walks in today's “Eat” review of Thermidor for SF Weekly, “Rocking the Retro.”

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