Twenty Five Lusk Rolls Out the Grandeur in SOMA

Deciding where to come down on Twenty Five Lusk ― the super-money SOMA eatery that launched in October ― depends on your closet, probably. If it harbors a $600 Theory sportcoat, SFoodie would like to introduce you to your new power center. Gap 1969 jeans hooked onto a coat rack by a belt loop? Wouldn't you feel altogether more comfortable at Citizen's Band?

SF Weekly food critic Jonathan Kauffman considers Twenty Five Lusk in today's “Eat” column. He didn't exactly find a kitchen full of culinary cool kids (the ones pushing the envelope at Sons and Daughters and Benu), only a staff diligently assembling chef Matthew Dolan's carefully limned classics, stuff like rabbit ravioli with old-school veal-stock and red-wine reduction. “Twenty Five Lusk … passes any measure of a successful restaurant in that it achieves almost everything it sets out to do,” which in this case means expressing what Kauffman calls a “polished grandeur.”

Of course, the loudest message comes not from Dolan's food, but via the “cold yet sleek and masculine” interior from the mind of power architect Cass Calder Smith. In six months, Kauffman surmises, the place might host nightly throngs of diners from Danville and Atherton, but for now, it's just you and that sportcoat, dog. Try not to get veal reduction on it.

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