What to Have for Lunch: Veracruz Fish Taco from Tacobar

Mon., May 17, 2010

Jack Schwartz just might've designed the best upscale taco in the current trend. Tacobar's chef-owner grew up in Mexico City and spent the last few years perfecting the art of crossover at La Calaca Loca in Oakland. His Veracruz pescado is the finest fish taco we've tasted. It's a mighty heap of grilled line-caught mahi-mahi, bright-tasting cabbage slaw, and a hashy puréed tomato sauce with the tannic pungency of green olives and capers, all in a flinty-sweet corn tortilla from Oakland's awesome La Finca. Esquites ― off-the-cob corn boiled with epazote leaves, garnished with crema, queso cotija, and powdered chile ― are a worthy add-on. Prices are far from taco-truck cheap, but get over it: Here on Fillmore Street, you're in the land of Jonathan, Mitchell, and Bob.

Tacobar 2401 California (at Fillmore), 674-7745.

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